Tallahassee Indoor Shooting Range
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Thread: AR500 Steel. Some lessons learned.

  1. #21
    CCGF Grammar Nazi Tack Driver's Avatar
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    I just bought a case of M855 at the gun show. I'm on my way to check out your repairs Mike.
    "It does not take a majority to prevail, but a tireless minority keen to setting brushfires of freedom in the minds of men." - Father of Our Revolution, Samuel Adams.

    I may be found dead in a ditch, but by God, they will find me and my rights in a PILE of brass.

    "Sure you can trust our government. Just ask an Indian."

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  2. #22
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    Just remember that I am a two time graduate of Signal-0's precision rifle program.
    I'd rather be lucky than good, but I'd rather KNOW I'm good than HOPE to get lucky.

  3. #23
    Graduate thedishdoc's Avatar
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    The guy I buy my AR500 plates from uses water submerged plasma to cut it. He's up in Georgia.

    He had the best prices I've found so far but has taken to selling on eBay and has raised his prices to cover the eBay/paypal fees. His prices are cheaper if you deal directly with him. his name is Mark. He might be someone to talk to for a group buy if anyone is looking for targets. I got a full size IPSA torso target from him for $150

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  4. #24
    CCGF Fashionista BR549's Avatar
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    Water jet cutter is how the real high quality high volume steel target guys like Action Target cut it from what I hear.

    My dad has a CNC Plasma cutter he may be willing to part with in the near future if you want to get freaky.

  5. #25
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    Guys remember that patching them after having holes shot in them is the issue. Can't do that with a water jet.
    I'd rather be lucky than good, but I'd rather KNOW I'm good than HOPE to get lucky.

  6. #26
    Sophomore Oath Keepers's Avatar
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    Mike, I wonder what rod would be best to patch them with? 9018 is obviously hard (definitely pre-heat) and I'm sure there's some other rods out there that would be even better. I've got some super hard exotic alloy rod (ass rod, if you ask me, but you'll flat-top it anyway with a grinder) I used to "hard-face" over coal-burners I was rebuilding in a coal-fire shut-down recently in Chicago (boiler wall). You're welcome to try some out if you want. I don't know why I kept them, but you might.

    Ivan, a rod keeper
    “If you are neutral in situations of injustice, you have chosen the side of the oppressor.”

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  7. #27
    CCGF Grammar Nazi Tack Driver's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oath Keepers View Post

    Ivan, a rod keeper
    Quoted for posterity.

    .............and a justification for a potential nomination.
    "It does not take a majority to prevail, but a tireless minority keen to setting brushfires of freedom in the minds of men." - Father of Our Revolution, Samuel Adams.

    I may be found dead in a ditch, but by God, they will find me and my rights in a PILE of brass.

    "Sure you can trust our government. Just ask an Indian."

    "Extremism in the defense of Liberty is no vice. Moderation in the pursuit of Justice is no virtue." - Barry Goldwater




  8. #28
    Shit Stirrer 0utlaw's Avatar
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    If ever there was a missed "No Homo" it was right there.




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  9. #29
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    Ivan, based on 'net reading I have been using low hydrogen, specifically 7018. The diameter is 1/8".

    To this day I have never had a single weld failure on the steel, though a number of failures (cracks) occur right at the edge of the weld. I have cross sectioned a couple of them and the penetration is as it should be (no homo), no porosity, no "almost" burnthrough.

    Visually the steel fails right where the bead stops. Or at least it did until I started quenching with this ultra super brine solution. It appears based on the one plate I have tested, I simply need a deeper pan to quench in. THAT I can fix.
    I'd rather be lucky than good, but I'd rather KNOW I'm good than HOPE to get lucky.

  10. #30
    Sophomore Oath Keepers's Avatar
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    Mike,

    7018 is the most-used rod for good reason. It's mild/carbon steel, though. 8018 is much harder and 9018 is hard as hell (again, pre-heat with a torch, -not the rod). The quenching does harden the 7018 up a lot, but it's still just 7018. It's not rocket surgery, but you can make it so, as many would love to wade into this conversation and do just that. The cracks at the edge of the weld is dis-similar material, though.

    If anyone's interested in what these numbers mean (as it's good to know), here's a source good as any other I've seen:

    http://www.weldmyworld.com/blog/2011...ng-system.html

    Ivan

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