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Thread: Need advice

  1. #81
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    There you go being a dick again. You are appalled at every post in the thread. And you feel it's necessary for you to let lurkers know the right-ish things every once in while.....

    I honestly do enjoy your most of your post. But why you feel it's necessary to be a rude arrogant fucking prick is beyond me. While your post are very informative, you always add some condescending bullshit. While I have no fucks to give about what you need to do to make yourself feel better, I wouldn't feel right not sharing with you my opinion. I am not attacking you. I am not angry with you and hold no hard feelings. I do not want you to quit posting. But if you are going to throw little arrogant jabs into your post, expect to be called on it.

  2. #82
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    There are 2 areas for posts in the reloading section.
    Since this IS rumblers house, everyone knows how hard stuff is to find.
    The info is there, but just not organized in one thread or post.
    So one wanting to reload should take the time to read the posts in both sections.

    here is one of them that states the need for a manual early.
    https://forum.capitalcitygunforum.co...o-to-reloading

    https://forum.capitalcitygunforum.co...bout-reloading

    https://forum.capitalcitygunforum.co...ment-questions

    https://forum.capitalcitygunforum.co...ding-questions

    Everyone has their favorites as far as equipment brands, and info in this *may* be dated a little, but content is worthwhile to read.
    https://thefiringline.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=230171

    As far as how to, or what each step of the reload process is,
    The abc's of reloading is good.
    It does not push one manufacturer over another or have any load data in it.

    Modern reloading by richard lee goes over the process as well, but as you would expect features lee products.
    The load data in the back is compiled from many sources, and should be cross checked against other sources, a a good practice for any load, from any place.

    The lyman book (at least in the 49th or 50 the or whatever I have) has a good explanation of the process, it has load data as well, and is very beneficial when working with cast lead loadings.

    The sierra book mainly uses their bullets, no pressure testing that I am aware of, and a good selection of powders used. They list what the test weapon, brass, primer, powder was used.

    Hornady mainly uses their bullets.

    As far as loads from powder manufacturers, those are pressure tested, at least the data I saw from hodgdon,Imr.

    I guess, it would be better presented in steps Like basic concepts of the process
    Minimum basic equipment
    Diffrences in equipment choices
    Intended uses
    Load development

    But re read the 2nt sentence in this post, again.

    30+, let us know how your load development went, when you get out to the range.
    Last edited by mapper; March 31st, 2017 at 09:45 PM.

  3. #83
    Just to let everyone know, I have 2 manuals. I have the Nosler reloading guide, that came with my kit. Many here suggested to get more than one, and compare the loads on the manuals, before reloading, so I bought the Lyman 50th edition. Another thing that help me A LOT, was private messaging Mapper, and I really appreciate all the help and knowledge he had giving me. I also did my first reloading VERY slow, step by step, double checking everything and I know, I could had done better, but it was my first time. Today, I was able to go test, what I reloaded. Let start by saying, I'm no season shooter. I'm learning the craft of shooting at the same time, I learn to reload. So flyers are abundant. That's is why, instead of 3 rounds per weight, I loaded 5 rounds for every weight. The bullet: Hornady Match 168gr BTHP, Primer: Winchester WLR primers, case: Federal once shot cases, NOT fired form and Varget powder. 100 yards, 2 inch targets. This were the results today. Tikka 308 test (3).jpg There is one missing round on the factory load of Federal premium 168 grain GMM . I forgot to dial the scope down from 300y to 100y, and the round was nowhere to be found. Tikka 308 test (4).jpg I started with 42 g, since it was the lowest load on both manuals for Varget with 168 bullet. I increased to load by .5 every time. Tikka 308 test (5).jpg two flyers here. Tikka 308 test (6).jpg I don't think the 2 outside of the target were flyers because the groups started shrinking. Tikka 308 test (7).jpg I think 43.5g, is bad shooting from my part. 44g Tikka 308 test (8).jpg , 44.5 Tikka 308 test (9).jpg group getting better. 45g Tikka 308 test (10).jpg I like the 45g group. 45.5 Tikka 308 test (11).jpg group, started oppening again. 46g Tikka 308 test (12).jpg still a good group, but I didn't want to go any higher. I know the groups would be better, if I was a better shooter. I liked the grains between 44.5g to 45.5g . I think the 45g group was the best since all 5 rounds were close. The 42g and 42.5 groups, with out the flyers are great also. What do you guys think?
    Last edited by 30plusretlaw; April 1st, 2017 at 05:22 PM.

  4. #84
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    I think you have it figured out.
    Luck is the phenomena created when Preparation meets Opportunity .

  5. #85
    CCGF Depository Dale Gribble's Avatar
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    The 45 looks best to me. However measure them to be sure.
    When I despair, I remember that all through history the ways of truth and love have always won. There have been tyrants, and murderers, and for a time they can seem invincible, but in the end they always fall. Think of it--always.

  6. #86
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    While vertical dispersion looks good at 45 gr, how did the primers look?
    were they flat, or still had a little radius left?
    Did they show any signs of cratering where the firing pin struck?
    If no ejection issues, or signs of pressure, you could either run with it,
    Or you could try and dropping the charge weight about 0.2 gr from 45 gr, as well as increasing it to 45.2 gr.
    It may get a little better, or not.
    The idea here is to have a little leeway in charge weight from your desired charge.
    For temperature and powder lot variations.

    Then you may or may not decide to experiment with seating depths and see if that makes a diffrence.
    The seating depths if you are using them in a magazine will be the limiting point if you don't want to single feed.

    At some point you will get to the "that's good enough for me" point.
    You may be there already, but the process is sound that you have gone through.

    The rifle will tell you what it likes.
    A load that looks good at 100 may be diffrent at 300,
    But it is a good place to start.
    Thanks for posting your results.
    Looks good.

    It is a bit of work, but satisfying when you find a load the rifle really likes.
    Last edited by mapper; April 1st, 2017 at 08:35 PM.

  7. #87
    Mapper, to tell you the truth, I saw no difference between the 42.5g primers and the 46g primers or brass. Once I pass the 43.5g, since I was scare shitless, I was inspecting every case. I think been scared, was the reason, I had so many flyers at the low grain bullets. After the first few, I was more confident. I had no ejection issues either. Maybe was because on this testing rounds, I ran the brass on a sami specs, full length die. I have not touch my fire formed brass yet.

    I was thinking, I might do another test, but this time, do .1g increments starting at 44.6g, since I already have a 44.5g results, all the way to 45.4g. My problem is, that I don't have a range that is open everyday with 100y close to home. I love going to the police range, The Policeman running the range, are always funny and fun to talk too. I do have a public range closer, but my experience there, was not a good one. Talking to others, their experiences been the same as mine. I might have to bite the bullet and go there.

    On the size of the bullets, I measure my lands at 2.89. The inside of my Accurate mag, measured at 2.98, so I think I'm good there. I will double check, once I start using my fired form cases. I plant to remeasure everything again. I also notice that at the low grains, the group were close, but impacted lower, than I was aiming. the 44.5g to the 45g, were impacting at the aiming level. 46g did the same and higher. So I will stay around the 45g +- loads. Thanks again for all the help and opinions you guys gave me.

    DSC_0461.jpgDSC_0462.jpgDSC_0463.jpgDSC_0464.jpg

  8. #88
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    Primers look good on 46 gr,
    I don't think that 0.1 gr powder steps will tell you anything measurable, other than using components.
    That's why I suggested a step halfway between what you had.
    The node should be bigger than 0.2 gr.
    Remember 0.2/46 = 0.4% of case capacity.
    If you wanted to see, sure you could do it.
    But that's 30 more loaded rounds than a ladder at 44.8 and 45.2

    The inside of lands measurement should be from base of case to ogive on bullet where it hits lands.
    The magazine dimension is overall length, which is diffrent.

    I get these dimensions from a hornady bullet comparator, a hornady oal guage and a modified case, and a caliper.
    If you don't have one I'll lend you mine.
    Pm me if you need it.

    Magazine fed rifles will be limited to the length of the mag, metal mags generally are thinner construction than plastic and give a little more length.

  9. #89
    Quote Originally Posted by mapper View Post
    Primers look good on 46 gr,
    I don't think that 0.1 gr powder steps will tell you anything measurable, other than using components.
    That's why I suggested a step halfway between what you had.
    The node should be bigger than 0.2 gr.
    Remember 0.2/46 = 0.4% of case capacity.
    If you wanted to see, sure you could do it.
    But that's 30 more loaded rounds than a ladder at 44.8 and 45.2

    The inside of lands measurement should be from base of case to ogive on bullet where it hits lands.
    The magazine dimension is overall length, which is diffrent.

    I get these dimensions from a hornady bullet comparator, a hornady oal guage and a modified case, and a caliper.
    If you don't have one I'll lend you mine.
    Pm me if you need it.

    Magazine fed rifles will be limited to the length of the mag, metal mags generally are thinner construction than plastic and give a little more length.
    Thanks for the offer. I already bought all that, using your links in another thread. That's why I mention, I was going to remeasure everything, because I think I measure the bullet length incorrectly. I will go .2g at a time. This is fun and entertaining. I was surprised the primers were all good and no signs of pressure on the brass either. So I will stay on the safe side. The longest I can shoot is 300y, so no need to try to push the envelope. My goal is to find a load that is good from 100y to maybe 600 y and stay on the safe zone. I also have 2 more bullets to test also. I have sierra HPBT match bullets and Hornandy Amax black (plastic tip). Since my distance is so close, I'll stay with 168 grs. We were talking yesterday about going to Malabars 600 yards range. If we do, Ill buy some 175 grs.

  10. #90
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    For simplicity's sake, I would load up 20-30 of those 45'ers and stretch it out to 200-300yds next when possible.
    Many of those loads look good. You are cleary doing a maticulous job there.
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