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Looks nice, how much does a job like that run?
Depends on the extent of the damage. Repairing a previously oiled stock is easier. If it's a poly coat with a chip, the entire stock has to be redone. Starts at $80 and goes up from there.Quote:
Originally Posted by FLT
How much to remove poly from Garand stock AND preserve the dod and p marks?
To remove poly and fix any dings, etc and go back with an oil finish will run about $300. If you'll notice, most war guns have deep and open grains. This allows a lot of moisture to get into the wood and cause potential damage. When we run the finish all the pores get filled, so it looks smooth and uninterrupted across the wood.Quote:
Originally Posted by polebarn
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Fit for spacer and pad for Beretta 687DL
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Building a jig to bend an engraved brass plate for SxS stock
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Engraved and inlaid brass escutcheon for Ithaca SxS
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Began installing a period correct recoil pad on a Burkard and Behr trap shot gun. The German 12 gauge is a break-action design circa early 1900's with a bottom lever that sets the hammer and breaks the barrels. The barrels are marked as Krupp steel and the engraving and final finish were performed by the American company L.C. Siner. An extremely rare piece.
Nice..... are you doing any work with melt in lacquer sticks on wood dings?
I've seen some years ago that you couldn't tell after they were done.
No sir, on a ding deep enough that can't be raised or sanded, I use an epoxy to fill the hole and then sand smooth with the contour of the stock.Quote:
Originally Posted by Schmidty
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Finished product for the Behr/Siner
That looks like first class work, what's a ball park figure for replaceing the recoil pad on a sako bolt action rifle ? The original one is starting to crumble from age . ( early 70s vintage )
Thanks man, generally $120 plus the cost of pad. There's factors that can make it more or less; some stocks have been butchered underneath.Quote:
Originally Posted by FLT
Flt,my son replaced the one on my Sako 223.Perfect but he said he did not want to do another.He had to go on the internet and find someone would had an original pad.Found one at some gunsmith up north.Dang pad cost almost as much as Jafar quoted you to install it.
NOS Sako pad on flebay for $124 now, I believe.
Let me expound upon this; this is the cost to grind and fit a recoil pad of any fit to any gun. A replacement OEM pad that is a direct fit has nothing to do with the examples above.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jafar
Thanks guys , but I have several new old stock sako recoil pads I've had them for years. I'm sure some one on you the Internet will say otherwise but if you store a long gun barrel down the pad will last a lot longer.
J , those old pads had to be fitted , all the stocks weren't the same back then . The wood blank that some of those old sako stocks were made from would cost several hundred today , if you could even find wood that pretty.
This very true Jafar,this pad was not fitted for this rifle and had to be ground to fit.As a one time owner of various Sako's from the late 60's and mid 70's all of them were different sizes on the butts.Better plan on fitting even if it is a Sako pad.Still have a couple.
Nice work Jafar! My 223 Sako has 30 coates of hand rubbed oil finish,took over 6 months to do right.
Boiled linseed is my favorite. No matter how much you charge for it, you'll never get back how much time and detail you put into it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny
Yep that is exactly what I have used for yrs. cannot do this any more due to neruo. in my hands.
If you need any help, just bring them up to me. We'll knock them out together.Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny
Restoring a Marlin 336 and going with straight grip Texas style. Much work left to do.
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My .35 inspired you, didn't it....you can admit it.
Man that looks really nice, what's the plan for the lever?
I was about to ask the same thing.Quote:
Originally Posted by 0utlaw
Quote:
Originally Posted by 0utlaw
There's aftermarket levers. http://www.mulemangunworks.com/mule-...custom-levers/Quote:
Originally Posted by e.money83
Jafar does fine work,if you don't believe it take something up for him to do.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 0utlaw
I'm actually gonna try my hand at using the existing lever to make a straight lever or some custom bell shape like the ones C/H showed in the link. Torch it up, take a hammer and mandrel to reshape, then treat/temper and kote it. Be the first time I've attempted such a thing, but the night shift coupled with copious amounts of Monsters and AC/DC are steering me in that direction.Quote:
Originally Posted by e.money83
Those are very coolQuote:
Originally Posted by Cattle/Horses
https://media1.tenor.com/images/ebf9...itemid=4514340Quote:
Originally Posted by Jafar
More than likely I'll probably wind up burning this bitch down. Forge work in a building full of gun powder, oil, and acetone may not be looked highly upon.Quote:
Originally Posted by e.money83
Gonna need a bigger torch or a forge.
^^^ Do you know farrier Dargin Waters? He's up ur way and has been at it for 30 years. He's the one I'd get to help me if I wanted to do that and he has all the equipment.
My sister dated Dargin back in high school. Small world, but I'm guessing he's done farrier work for you?
Quote:
Originally Posted by 32flyingk9
He's GOOD. I've used him through the years for corrective shoeing on horses and foals that had MAJOR feet problems. Problems that would have caused them to have to be put down if not fixed. Dargin always came through.
When other farriers call him for advice, you kinda know he's the one to go to.
He was strong as a pulp wooder back then, but a nice guy. Haven't seen him in a long time though. If you cross paths with him, tell him I said hello.
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Final prep and first coat
Oil?Quote:
Originally Posted by Jafar
Jafar, get you a test block of sanded wood and put a couple coats of tractor hydraulic fluid on it and see what you think. The wood takes the hyd fluid really good and it has a slight red tint.
Boiled linseedQuote:
Originally Posted by Tack Driver
Sent from my XT1050 using Tapatalk
For real?Quote:
Originally Posted by Cattle/Horses
Sent from my XT1050 using Tapatalk
Yeah, try it for real. I never seen it on a stock but for kiln dried YP it makes for nice looking siding. It's so fluid the wood soaks it up.
Do you know if hydraulic is detergent based like tranny fluid?Quote:
Originally Posted by Cattle/Horses
Sent from my XT1050 using Tapatalk
IDK, Google says: " has superior detergent/dispersant, anti-wear, antioxidant, anti-rust and anti-foam agents along with special friction modifiers"Quote:
Originally Posted by Jafar
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Gonna wax the wood and take some outdoor pictures tomorrow, but this one is going home.
That there is taking chicken shit and making chicken cordon bleu out of it. That looks really nice.
How do you like the ergonomics of the buttstock? Does it handle carried one handed?..