Can I use dies and shell holders from different different companies? like Lee and dillon?
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Can I use dies and shell holders from different different companies? like Lee and dillon?
Generally yes, unless the dies in question are for a dillon square deal, as those are proprietary.
I have lee and rcbs shellholders, lee, rcbs, redding, and hornady dies, and use them all.
Everyone has their favorite color.
For rifle dies mine are the light green, the dark green, and the red ones without the shellholder in the set.
For pistol most all of those are the red ones, that come with a shellholder.
Ok, update time. FLT and JM. I appreciate your willingness to help, immensely. I talked to the guy at work, and he is bringing me 400 primers for rifle and exchanging them for the LPs and buying the rest from me. I'm staying in the 100-300 yards range, so I will stay in the 165-175 grains bullets, to start. Thanks again!!! Now, I was holding on the reloading hobbie, but this elections, push me to do it in a hurry and with out knowledge. I just found out, I made another mistake. I bought a set of dies that is specific to reload ARs rounds (not bad do, cus it will make me buy dies for the bolt action. ;-) ) I found a Redding kit, that comes with a neck sizing only die. https://www.midwayusa.com/product/47...308-winchester
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/64...308-winchester
I like the idea of the neck sizing die, because I want to reload for the BA first. If I'm not mistaking, the case will expand to fit the BA chamber? Another question I have is, How do I remove the primer with out the use of a full sizing die? Since thanks to you guys, I know I have to keep my casings separated, this might help with the learning curve. This election is draining my wallet fast. Found this also, interesting. How you guys lube the cases and what do you use to do it?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MztaUZuHGXA
Another question. Do I remove the primer prior to cleaning or after cleaning?
Remove the primer first,your neck sizing die should have the decapping pin on the neck sizing spindle.I use sizing wax sparingly.have used others but I prefer the wax.
I have full length reloading dies but I prefer neck sizing for all of my bolt actions ,forgot I do not own an auto except in turkey guns.
I buy my ammo at walmarts.
This allows a few activities that reloaders don't have:
I am in the woods 25-7 during 3 states deer seasons.
I can spend my free time with my family to make up for the fact that I shoot 9mm.
I have all my eyeballs and fingers, as my mediocrity would lead to squib and over powered rounds, likely in that order.
God bless
A.D.D prevents me from reloading.......... A man's got to know his limitations.
So...... what is the best reloading handbook out there? I heard, that I should have more than one, to cross reference. The kit I bought, came with the Nosler hand book. Which other is or are a must have?
30 years ago when I started there were only a few companies that made bullets for people who reloaded. Nosler, Speer, Hornady, etc, and you bought the manual for the specific bullet you would be loading. I think that still holds true, although there are bullets now that are almost, if not identical (Grains, shape, BC) made by MANY different companies. Such as the .224 55gr FMJ.
When I was starting out, the Nosler Partition had just been developed. It was to revolutionize the hunting round, especially on game like mule deer, elk and such . Lots of bullets of the day would not hold together when bone was hit, many retained less than 50% of their original weight - penetration was a problem. The partition was designed to actually have a brass partition midways with lead loaded from both end. In theory and practice the Partition would only mushroom to the partition, retaining 75% of it's initial weight. I'm sure there's just as good or better bullets out there today, but I still reload Partitions for hunting. Want to shoot hogs in the head or neck with your AR15, try the 60gr Partition.
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