I just bought a case of M855 at the gun show. I'm on my way to check out your repairs Mike. :goodjob:
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I just bought a case of M855 at the gun show. I'm on my way to check out your repairs Mike. :goodjob:
Just remember that I am a two time graduate of Signal-0's precision rifle program.:banana:
The guy I buy my AR500 plates from uses water submerged plasma to cut it. He's up in Georgia.
He had the best prices I've found so far but has taken to selling on eBay and has raised his prices to cover the eBay/paypal fees. His prices are cheaper if you deal directly with him. his name is Mark. He might be someone to talk to for a group buy if anyone is looking for targets. I got a full size IPSA torso target from him for $150
Bullseye Metals LLC
4132 Atlanta Hwy
Ste 110-225
Loganville, GA
30052
Water jet cutter is how the real high quality high volume steel target guys like Action Target cut it from what I hear.
My dad has a CNC Plasma cutter he may be willing to part with in the near future if you want to get freaky.
Guys remember that patching them after having holes shot in them is the issue. Can't do that with a water jet. :goodjob:
Mike, I wonder what rod would be best to patch them with? 9018 is obviously hard (definitely pre-heat) and I'm sure there's some other rods out there that would be even better. I've got some super hard exotic alloy rod (ass rod, if you ask me, but you'll flat-top it anyway with a grinder) I used to "hard-face" over coal-burners I was rebuilding in a coal-fire shut-down recently in Chicago (boiler wall). You're welcome to try some out if you want. I don't know why I kept them, but you might.
Ivan, a rod keeper :rolleyes:
If ever there was a missed "No Homo" it was right there.
Ivan, based on 'net reading I have been using low hydrogen, specifically 7018. The diameter is 1/8".
To this day I have never had a single weld failure on the steel, though a number of failures (cracks) occur right at the edge of the weld. I have cross sectioned a couple of them and the penetration is as it should be (no homo), no porosity, no "almost" burnthrough.
Visually the steel fails right where the bead stops. Or at least it did until I started quenching with this ultra super brine solution. It appears based on the one plate I have tested, I simply need a deeper pan to quench in. THAT I can fix. :)
Mike,
7018 is the most-used rod for good reason. It's mild/carbon steel, though. 8018 is much harder and 9018 is hard as hell (again, pre-heat with a torch, -not the rod). The quenching does harden the 7018 up a lot, but it's still just 7018. It's not rocket surgery, but you can make it so, as many would love to wade into this conversation and do just that. The cracks at the edge of the weld is dis-similar material, though.
If anyone's interested in what these numbers mean (as it's good to know), here's a source good as any other I've seen:
http://www.weldmyworld.com/blog/2011...ng-system.html
Ivan