Thoughts on Hornady lock n load system

[Countryboy27012]

Hey guys, need some thoughts on the hornady lock n load system.

I have been wanting to get into reloading for a while and ran across this system in my research. It sounds like the lock n load bushings would make things easier to duplicate once set up and locked in. It also comes with everything needed to get started up, as I have nothing.

This would be for range ammo mostly (223/556, 9, 40 45) and possibly some precision hunting loads in .270 and eventually 300acc.

Is this a good investment? I have enough rewards points to get the system and some dies without having to out of pocket any funds. Any advice is appreciated.

[Johnny]

You can not go wrong with Hornaday,equipment or componets have used Hornaday bullets for 58yrs,have taken mule deer,whitetails,antelope and elk with them.i use rcbs rock chucker from over 58 yrs but Hornaday did not produce equipment back then.

[Dale Gribble]

Quite frankly I think two choices exist in progressive's.

dillion and Lee. One works with little fiddling and lots of money, the other works with lots of fiddling and little money. Everything I've read about the Hornady progressive and it sounds like its slightly better than Lee, but not enough to matter.

If you are talking single stage, its hard to buy a bad single stage press. My lee single stage has something similar to the LnL for putting dies in and it is quite nice.

[AB]

Everyone has a preference for their flavor, but Dillon Precision is the way to go if you're looking for a progressive. Dale is right in that if you're looking for a single stage it's hard to get it wrong, but I've been around reloading since 1990 and have seen the frustrations of a LOT of people who went with a progressive system that wasn't Dillon. They are easy to set up and once set up, they stay that way. The Dillon powder dispenser is the most accurate on the market, and if consistency matters to you (and it should) then the choice is clear.

Buy once, cry once.

[Dale Gribble]

I meant dillion, not RCBS. Thanks AB.

[Once]

I want a Dillon, but am probably gonna get the LNL Ammo Plant. It's got more than enough good reviews to overshadow the bad, and the only real video I could find outlining negatives it was obviously operator error. In another $1,100 I'll let you know how it works out. Push comes to shove I mail it and a copy of the receipt to Hornady and get my money back.

[AB]

Make sure you stay hydrated. All those tears of frustration can sneak up on you!

[Once]

I spent half an hour last night trying to find all the "options" shown with the 750 on Dillons website, still not sure if I managed to add everything shown to the cart. And it still didn't have the Mr. Bullet feeder or the die for it.
Without using the ammo plant, I can give it a big check over Dillon for ease of shopping, it comes with the bells and whistles and you don't have to hunt through a website for them.

Dillon needs to make one of their tech savvy employees update their website.

[Once]

That being said, Dillon's financiers just approved me enough to get the 1100 and all the bells and whistles, so I just ordered the 750 and bells and whistles today. No bullet feeder though, had to keep it around the $1,200 mark. Merry Christmas to me!

[AB]

Let us know how it goes. Often, I see folks buy guns and gear and never get back to us with a review!

[simmoag]

Make sure you stay hydrated. All those tears of frustration can sneak up on you!

:hahaha:

[Countryboy27012]

Bringing this thread back up. I finally bit the bullet and bought a single stage lee press. It should arrive Wednesday or Thursday. I'm still interested in 223, 9 and 45 to start off with. But asking for advice on which to do first?

Now keep in mind, I have never reloaded before. I do have a digital scale and calipers. So is there anything else I need to get started other than dies, powder and primers?

[12bhunting]

I like the lee single stage myself . Pick any and start loading. You will pick it up as you go along casing trays ect.

[12bhunting]

Grab the lee case trimmer....

[Dale Gribble]

Bringing this thread back up. I finally bit the bullet and bought a single stage lee press. It should arrive Wednesday or Thursday. I'm still interested in 223, 9 and 45 to start off with. But asking for advice on which to do first?

Now keep in mind, I have never reloaded before. I do have a digital scale and calipers. So is there anything else I need to get started other than dies, powder and primers?

9mm and 45 are easier than 223. I would say 9 because you don't have to worry with what kind of primers the 45 could have (some vendors use small, some use large). I started with 9mm because I shoot a metric fuckton of it.

[WinterSoldier]

12b is talking about loading blocks. Not indispensable they are both very useful and rather frustrating because of the "one size fits none so two sizes that fit none are better" aspect. Since you are going low cost/low tech you can be aware of the possibility of double-charging especially in pistol calibers and inspect the powder loads visually with a flashlight before pressing in the.bullets. Loading blocks/ trays help organize that and other procedures. You can make do with the primer feature of the press if it has one... but I really, really like using a hand primer. For that I like the RCBS APS strip loader and use one for each size primer so I don't have to change the "doohickey". Case trimmers are essential, but not to get started. You can wait a little while. Lee single stage presses are perfectly good at doing the job, the single stage is just more time consuming and musical-chairs-ish. I've got 3 or 4 of them, as well as Lee and RCBS turret presses.

I agree on loading the pistol rounds first...either the 9mm or the .45 ACP. If you get any small-primered .45 ACP, just throw the damn things in the trash brass bin. I keep what's left of a deprimer rod after the pin breaks off handy when prepping ,45 ACP brass. It will fit in to a large primer pocket but not into a small primer pocket, so... any .45 brass that is a no-go, is gone.

[BWest]

Just get in the habit of sorting out large primer and small primer .45 brass. I know Federal uses small primers, so if you've been buying federal .45 ammo you likely have a bunch of brass that you probably won't have to waste.

Just run one batch of small primer rounds for every 9 large primer batches or whatever

[BWest]

9 and 45 (especially .45), are much more "worth it" than .223 for reloading. With plated or cast bullets that many companies sell you can get your cost per round to a quarter of what factory ammo is. The cost and time that goes into loading .223, especially for "plinking" ammo for an AR or something just isn't low enough to be worth doing in my opinion. (though with the current shortage of ammo, maybe its time I get back into it, if I can find bullets for a decent price)

[WinterSoldier]

Um… Things you will need...

You do know that bottlenecked brass (rifle or pistol) like .223 must be lubricated, right? Pistol brass... If you buy carbide dies, STRAIGHT WALLED pistol brass does not have to be lubricated.

Economics are whatever you make of them. Most of my loads are made using bullets I cast myself from scrap lead. So, the bullets are super-cheap at about $1.00 per pound... if you don't count the hundred or more bullet moulds I've bought over the years. For a few high velocity rounds, I buy FMJ bullets... but, if its lead, I make it.

[Arcwelder]

Get a self tapping deck screw (1/4 inch thread) a washer the top does not go through, a short piece of 1/2 metal conduit pipe, allen or star bit and a drill for the tap (3/16).
When (not if) you get a case stuck in your die, drill the primer, screw the self tapping deck screw in through the washer and conduit so that you can pull the brass out.
or not, but this is what I do. Cheaper than messing up the die trying to beat it out.

[Cattle/Horses]

Get a self tapping deck screw …………………………. Cheaper than messing up the die trying to beat it out.


You know RCBS makes that in a kit? A stuck case remover they call it I believe.

[Arcwelder]

yep. Mine costs about $1.50 if you already have the self tapping deck screw.

[WinterSoldier]

Get a self tapping deck screw (1/4 inch thread) a washer the top does not go through, a short piece of 1/2 metal conduit pipe, allen or star bit and a drill for the tap (3/16).
When (not if) you get a case stuck in your die, drill the primer, screw the self tapping deck screw in through the washer and conduit so that you can pull the brass out.
or not, but this is what I do. Cheaper than messing up the die trying to beat it out.

But probably not as cheap as lubing right in the first place, methinks.

[WinterSoldier]

You know RCBS makes that in a kit? A stuck case remover they call it I believe.

The only stuck case removers I've ever seen were intended to clear gun chambers... I've got those in several calibers but have never needed to use one... at least not one I had. I spent years getting the stuck case of an old round-nosed steel jacketed 7.92mm round WITH THE BULLET STILL IN THE NECK OF THE CARTRIDGE out of a Gewehr 88 Commission Rifle once upon a time. The solution came when a neighbor down the street threw out some kind of shoe rack intended to hang from a closet door. It was made from about 30 cal. mild steel rods... i.e. just a little smaller than bore diameter. I cut a piece a few inches longer than the barrel of the Gewehr, slightly beveled the end that would contact the bullet, and drove bullet and case fragment out as pretty as you please.with a 4 Lb. sledge.

[WinterSoldier]

BTW: For your edification, all German and many Eastern European cartridges are made "Stück"... because "Stück", a word of many meanings, in the instance of ammunition, means more or less "item" or "round". So... if you buy 100 rounds you have bought 100 Stück.

[Arcwelder]

But probably not as cheap as lubing right in the first place, methinks.

Lube does not prevent all cases from getting stuck. It usually prevents stuck cases, but sometimes one will.

[BWest]

Lube does not prevent all cases from getting stuck. It usually prevents stuck cases, but sometimes one will.

I currently have a stuck case in my .223 die, I need to try the self-tapping screw method. It was well lubed, but the shellholder sheared off the rim when I tried to pull down the ram.

[Dale Gribble]

I currently have a stuck case in my .223 die, I need to try the self-tapping screw method. It was well lubed, but the shellholder sheared off the rim when I tried to pull down the ram.

When mine get stuck it is usually on the internal sizing pin. I use lee dies, just loosen the pin and drive it out. Then use a dremel to weaken the case where it is tight, and put it in a vice and pull it out. Like most things in life, lots of lube helps.

[BWest]

Most die manufacturers will remove a stuck case free of charge if you return it to them. They usually polish and check it over as well.

Lee charges like 14 bucks or something. I don't remember what it is.

[BWest]

yeah I took the lock nut(?) out so I have the die with the case in it and the decapping pin/expander stuck in the case....can I just drive the case out using the pin thats stuck in it?

[WinterSoldier]

I guess maybe not shooting less lethal rounds such as .223 has helped me keep out of trouble... because I can't recall ever shearing the rim off of a case. I generally stick to calibers .30 and larger, though I did buy dies and collect brass for .223 once upon a time. In a world in which I can choose any caliber I want, I just can't think of any reason to choose THAT one.

[Cattle/Horses]

I did buy dies and collect brass for .223 once upon a time.

What you want barter for it all? Tupelo honey, Cane syrup or Corn?

[BWest]

Bwest , If it doesn’t come out pretty easy let me know and I’ll remove it for you . I have the tools to remove it with out damage to the die. I won’t charge you anything.

Thanks, haven't really tried anything substantial yet, but I'll let you know

[Clays]

Bringing this thread back up. I finally bit the bullet and bought a single stage lee press. It should arrive Wednesday or Thursday. I'm still interested in 223, 9 and 45 to start off with. But asking for advice on which to do first?

Now keep in mind, I have never reloaded before. I do have a digital scale and calipers. So is there anything else I need to get started other than dies, powder and primers?

-case prep tool. Lyman is pretty good
-tumbler for case cleaning
-some sort of priming system- Lee Ram prime works fine
-Hornady bullet puller
-trimming system- Lyman hand trimmer does well for cheap
-powder measure

That is the minimum I would add to what you have already. 9 and 45 are time consuming on single stage, but you can make really accurate rounds. Don’t trim pistol brass.

[WinterSoldier]

What you want barter for it all? Tupelo honey, Cane syrup or Corn?

I bought moulds and (SHOCKER) sizer (lead bullets in a 5.6mm are dicey and counter to the velocity requirements of the round but I decided to make some anyway), new jacketed .224 bullets, powder... you name it. Then along came research for the book I'm trying to write about Georgia Rangers in the American Revolution, buying and working on a derelict house in N GA, etc., and I just ain't got to loading for 5.56mm yet, but if I live long enough, one of these days I will. I have more undone projects than any average dozen guys...

[Mad Man]

Bringing this thread back up. I finally bit the bullet and bought a single stage lee press. It should arrive Wednesday or Thursday. I'm still interested in 223, 9 and 45 to start off with. But asking for advice on which to do first?

Now keep in mind, I have never reloaded before. I do have a digital scale and calipers. So is there anything else I need to get started other than dies, powder and primers?

You do have a loading manual right?

[Countryboy27012]

You do have a loading manual right?

Not at this time. I will be picking one up when I get some dies. Going to try to set everything up before I actually get powder primers etc... I know me, I would just start banging out rounds without doing much prep.

[WinterSoldier]

Yeah, I usually recommend Lyman's or Richard Lee's manuals, or both, unless you want to just specifically stuck with one high-priced brand of bullets. AND, DO not just look up one load. Read the general explanatory part of the manual first. Reading it twice is better than reading it once.

[WinterSoldier]

Also, you can find *some* loads on the powder company web sites, for using powders of that specific company... BUT... you really still need to read a manual or two, several times, first.

[12bhunting]

Most of the data is online. ..

[Mad Man]

Also, you can find *some* loads on the powder company web sites, for using powders of that specific company... BUT... you really still need to read a manual or two, several times, first.

I completely agree about reading the manual first. The lee manual (modern reloading) is great. I read the how to before setting up my press. As WS said Lyman is also a good one to have.

[Johnny]

If you are not using carbide dies you "MUST LUBE THE CASE"IF you not it will size upin the die!!!!!!

[BWest]

The Lyman 50th manual is pretty good.
The Lee 2nd isn't a MUST, but has a ton of data that can give you a starting point, especially if you try and load some esoteric military surplus cartridge or something.
The Hornady manual is good to have if you use their bullets a lot.
The Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook is great to have if you will cast your own bullets.

[Countryboy27012]

So, got the press mounted. Got some dies. Got a manual. Got some brass inspected, deprimed, cleaned and dried. Now the fun part... anyone know a local source for powder, primers and projectiles? Looking for 9mm stuff. Thanks

[12bhunting]

Dsh

[12bhunting]

If dsh doesn't have it you can try Kevin's

[Countryboy27012]

Appreciate it brother

[Dale Gribble]

Academy and Basspro both from time to time.

[AB]

I use Powder Valley online for most of my powder/primer needs. I hit up MidwayUSA whenever they waive hazmat fees on primers and locally I use DSH or Kevin's. For bullets I use Bayou Bullets for practice and Montana Gold for matches.

[12bhunting]

I use Powder Valley online for most of my powder/primer needs. I hit up MidwayUSA whenever they waive hazmat fees on primers and locally I use DSH or Kevin's. For bullets I use Bayou Bullets for practice and Montana Gold for matches.

Country Sign up for there e mail and they will let you know when the deals are....

[Johnny]

I also purchase a lot from Natchez Shooters Supply on line.

[Countryboy27012]

So I tried DSH, Kevin's, academy, Guns n Gold & Adtec. There are no small pistol primers or 9mm projectiles to be found. I've been looking online and haven't found any either. So if anyone runs across some, please let me know. Or if anyone has some they want to part with, give me a shout. Thanks for all the help guys.

[Cattle/Horses]

Dillion's monthly pamphlet always has some decent prices on components. Sadly I've thrown mine away, but I'll receive another in the next week or two.

See if anyone on here has July's or try their website.

[12bhunting]

Yeah primers are out everywhere.....

[WinterSoldier]

How many times have I told you guys to buy them when they have them...

[BWest]

How many times have I told you guys to buy them when they have them...

might as well, they don't really go bad if kept dry

[12bhunting]

How many times have I told you guys to buy them when they have them...

I only remember this one time.....

[WinterSoldier]

The way shit works... primers, though necessary for everything, are also a competition against manufacturers other products upon which they make more money...so... when sales are good, why worry about selling a few nickle-dime primers. But if you think that's bad... just try to find percussion caps, I double-dog dare you. I don't know if they've run out yet, but if they have don't hold your breath for them to make more. You won't just turn blue, you will wither, die, and turn to dust before you see another percussion cap... No 10, No 11, or musket.

[AB]

might as well, they don't really go bad if kept dry

You don’t even have to keep them dry. I rescued a batch from a garage that had been leaking and the moisture was so bad the boxes fell apart around the plastic sleeves and you could see “high water” marks. Dried them out and used them. ~1500 primers (Winchester small pistol) and none failed to fire.

[polebarn]

The way shit works... primers, though necessary for everything, are also a competition against manufacturers other products upon which they make more money...so... when sales are good, why worry about selling a few nickle-dime primers. But if you think that's bad... just try to find percussion caps, I double-dog dare you. I don't know if they've run out yet, but if they have don't hold your breath for them to make more. You won't just turn blue, you will wither, die, and turn to dust before you see another percussion cap... No 10, No 11, or musket.

Cabellas has CCI #11,#11 magnum, and 4 wing but only in 100 count.

[Cattle/Horses]

Cabellas has CCI #11,#11 magnum, and 4 wing but only in 100 count.

Pick WS up a box of each. You know "for the elderly".

[Clays]

So I tried DSH, Kevin's, academy, Guns n Gold & Adtec. There are no small pistol primers or 9mm projectiles to be found. I've been looking online and haven't found any either. So if anyone runs across some, please let me know. Or if anyone has some they want to part with, give me a shout. Thanks for all the help guys.

Midway has CCI 500s in stock. A bit pricy after shipping, so throw in other items to mix up the cost. Speer 115 gr bullets are available for .12 a piece. At least it gets you started so you can learn now and not months down the road. When stuff comes back in stock later then you can buy in bulk when cheaper. Then you’ll know what to buy or not buy.

[Countryboy27012]

Thanks Clay's! I actually just got that email and jumped on it. So I got some on the way!

[WinterSoldier]

Pick WS up a box of each. You know "for the elderly".

"The elderly" only accept "free stuff".

[Countryboy27012]

My shipment from Midway arrived late today. So I've been spending some time in the shop and this is what I've come up with. 124 gr. Speer over 5.1 grains of Winchester autocomp seated to 1.135" I'm going to give them a shot next time I get a chance to go to the range. Let's hope this works out. 16689

[Clays]

Primers seated a bit below flush? Any crimp? Looks good!

[Dale Gribble]

Put all the bullets in a loading block or normal factory ammo box. Put them in bullet down and look real close at the primers and the heights of the cases. Flip them over and do the same thing looking at the bullets. Anything not right will usually pop right out at you.

[Arcwelder]

I also load everything one step at a time (when I reloaded last.)
Prime, put all cases primer up, check.
Put all cases primer down, put in powder. Any double or over charge shows up in pistol rifle is deeper so harder to see. I use powder that a double charge will overfill the case to make it evident.
Then add bullets. any not seated will also show up in a bullet block.
Weigh a good known loaded case. Then compare the rest to it.

[Clays]

My shipment from Midway arrived late today. So I've been spending some time in the shop and this is what I've come up with. 124 gr. Speer over 5.1 grains of Winchester autocomp seated to 1.135" I'm going to give them a shot next time I get a chance to go to the range. Let's hope this works out. 16689

When you test your first load have your cousin do it. And have him shoot support hand only. That way if something goes wrong, you’re still around to fix the load and tell us your mistake.

[WinterSoldier]

Primers seated a bit below flush? Any crimp? Looks good!

I'm just looking at a photo, so what do I know? NOTHING!!!

But, I will say that I question the "crimp" or just plain old "neck tension". If the bullets are in there too loose and the bullet moves while being bumped around in the gun before firing, bad things can result.

Once again though, I'm just looking at a photo. I KNOW nothing.

[Cattle/Horses]

WS ^^^ I got you a couple of pieces of flint for your Hawkins. You should be GTG now.

[Countryboy27012]

I will admit the photo does look like the "crimp" is a little lacking, but I assure you it's there.

Just curious, how much do you guys crimp your bullets?

The primers are slightly below flush.. i think they are ok.

[Johnny]

Keep in mind that the 9mm headspaces on the case mouth.If you put to much crimp you have some real problems.

[WinterSoldier]

I don't have anything as newfangled as a Hawkins.

Well, there is the .75 cal. Tower Musket, made at the Tower of London in 1842.

[WinterSoldier]

I chamfer the case mouth on all of my brass which gives it more of a transition...

[mapper]

I put less emphasis on oal, as that varies by bullet style, and weight. I put more of an emphasis on it passing the plunk test, where it drops in the pistol chamber. As Johnny said 9 mm and 45 indexes on the case mouth. A taper crimp on auto loaders, roll crimp on revolvers that index off case rim, and neck tension for rifle is what I use.

[AB]

I will admit the photo does look like the "crimp" is a little lacking, but I assure you it's there.

Just curious, how much do you guys crimp your bullets?

The primers are slightly below flush.. i think they are ok.

I go through quite a few bullets getting it just right. I crimp it down until it will drop into a chamber gauge smoothly. I then pull the bullet to make sure the bullet isn’t pinched at all. I’m looking for a smooth scratch pattern all the way around the bullet with no tapering in the jacketing/plating and no “waist” where the case mouth was. Next, I push the bullet against the bench to make sure it won’t set back in the case under a moderate amount of pressure. I’m not too worried about the bullet walking out of the case under recoil in a semi-auto. That’s mostly a revolver problem.

[Countryboy27012]

Speaking of, what bullet puller do you guys recommend?

[Clays]

Hornady. I’ve tried to break it, and it won’t. There’s probably slightly better but more expensive options out there like the new Frankford wall mounted puller. Just load in small batches to test, then you won’t need to pull hundreds at a time if it’s a bad load. You can pull hundreds with the Hornady though - I did it one afternoon lol.

[Cattle/Horses]

Channellock

Seriously; Remove the die from ur single stage press. Place cartridge in case holder and raise it up through hole where the die screws in. Grasp bullet and reverse direction of press lever. let the handle and tip of chanellocks rest on side of press. I've pulled a few like this through the years.

[WinterSoldier]

I have press-mounted bullet pullers in several of the "more popular calibers" but have never used any of them. I started off using a green RCBS inertial puller but soon found that hard use ate up the light aluminum collets very fast. I then moved over to some more or less nameless orange colored clone inertial puller that has multiple collets instead of just one -universal" (one size fits none) collet... but frankly I haven't had much reason to pull bullets lately. A puller is a handy thing you should have, but I wouldn't spend big bucks on one...