mapper
April 4th, 2017, 11:24 AM
I saw this on another forum :eek:
I searched around a bit and didn't see this topic already on this forum and saw it answered inadequately on another forum so I thought I'd try here
I'm new to reloading but my aim is two fold
1) to save money on my rounds and not break the bank shooting 100 rounds of actual hunting ammo through my hunting rifle for practice.
2) to practice with what I hunt with. As stated above, if I am paying $2+ per round for factory ammo hunting rounds I want, I can't waste a bunch at the range.
I only have the desire to reload 30.06 rounds (I'm a simple guy) and so I bought a Lee Loader Classic in 30.06, brass (some fire formed to my rifle some new), large rifle primers, and Nosler ballistic tip and Accubond bullets. I also picked up a Digital Caliper, steel wool for cleaning the brass, and eventually will pick up a Lee Case trimmer when my current brass stretches outside of spec.
Using info online, I've discovered the specific overall cartridge length needed for my rifle to keep the bullet about .015" off the lands and know my brass length ranges for 30.06
I can't afford either financially or time-wise a new hobby, so I have no desire to develop custom loads, learn the math, or become a reloading guru, I just want to follow the recipe. Nosler bullets as I'm sure you know come with several recommendations of powder types and loads for the specific bullets you buy.
All that being said, if all I want to do is "follow the recipe" as it were and save some money, using the Nosler recommended powder and load, why do I need a reloading manual? It seems to me like the simplicity that I am seeking does not require one with only a single caliber and no desire for experimentation, but I know very little about this. Please help a new guy out with your wisdom!
I understand that folks get into reloading for various reasons.
some only want ammo to go bang, others want to clean a x ring of a target at 300,600,1000 yds.
Some envision loading 100 rds a year, others envision loading 1000 or more rounds a week.
The needs and uses are diffrent, but still boil down to this:
You are putting a primer in a brass case and adding gunpowder and a bullet, then putting it in a pistol/rifle chamber
Holding it in your hand close to your face and pulling the trigger.
Without understanding the processes at work, the pressures generated, (tens of thousands of pounds per square inch )and the steps involved is unwise.
A reloading manual such as "The ABC's of reloading" or "modern reloading by richard lee" or the lyman manuals
Explain parts of a cartridge, each part of the reloading process, diffrences in powder types,burn speeds, and primers, diffrences in bullet construction,
And diffrent presses and tools that can be used.
They also go over case pressure signs and load development, the lee book goes into reduced loads.
As far as load data, the ABC's of reloading has none, lee has a compilation of data from other sources, lyman has data
And is a good resource for cast bullet data.
Hornady,speer,sierra, and the bullet makers manuals have data mainly as it pertains to their bullets.
Powder manufacturers have data that gives pressure in what they tested it in for maximum loads.
the lee loader is a neck size only, pound it with a mallet, pour powder from a dipper approach.
Eventually the brass will need to be full length sized, something that this approach does not do.
As far as assuming that the overall length has a relationship to distance from rifling,
That is not something that I would trust in a chart.
Bullet shape has a whole lot to do with that, as well as how the chamber in the rifle was cut.
It is best determined by measuring.
As far as the above quoted post not wanting to do load development, well, I'm sorry about that.
It goes with the reloading process. You will have to do some.
so yes, I think a manual or several is a good idea.
You will find diffrences in max listed loads in them, and comparing several data sources to get a reasonable starting point is always a good idea.
As far as basics, I consider the manuals to be one of them.
Same for a scale,caliper,powder dispenser,funnel
And if loading rifle ,trimmer, debur and chamfer tool, primer pocket and case neck brushes.
Others may include a case guage in this,as well as loading blocks,and off press priming tools, case cleaners,media separators,
The press and to some extent dies(if proprietary like dillon square deal) are another part that is decided on after reading the manuals and seeing the diffrences
Between lee loaders,hand presses,single stage presses,turret presses,and progressive presses.
Additional thoughts on manuals that are worth a read.
https://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=586009
(https://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=586009)
I searched around a bit and didn't see this topic already on this forum and saw it answered inadequately on another forum so I thought I'd try here
I'm new to reloading but my aim is two fold
1) to save money on my rounds and not break the bank shooting 100 rounds of actual hunting ammo through my hunting rifle for practice.
2) to practice with what I hunt with. As stated above, if I am paying $2+ per round for factory ammo hunting rounds I want, I can't waste a bunch at the range.
I only have the desire to reload 30.06 rounds (I'm a simple guy) and so I bought a Lee Loader Classic in 30.06, brass (some fire formed to my rifle some new), large rifle primers, and Nosler ballistic tip and Accubond bullets. I also picked up a Digital Caliper, steel wool for cleaning the brass, and eventually will pick up a Lee Case trimmer when my current brass stretches outside of spec.
Using info online, I've discovered the specific overall cartridge length needed for my rifle to keep the bullet about .015" off the lands and know my brass length ranges for 30.06
I can't afford either financially or time-wise a new hobby, so I have no desire to develop custom loads, learn the math, or become a reloading guru, I just want to follow the recipe. Nosler bullets as I'm sure you know come with several recommendations of powder types and loads for the specific bullets you buy.
All that being said, if all I want to do is "follow the recipe" as it were and save some money, using the Nosler recommended powder and load, why do I need a reloading manual? It seems to me like the simplicity that I am seeking does not require one with only a single caliber and no desire for experimentation, but I know very little about this. Please help a new guy out with your wisdom!
I understand that folks get into reloading for various reasons.
some only want ammo to go bang, others want to clean a x ring of a target at 300,600,1000 yds.
Some envision loading 100 rds a year, others envision loading 1000 or more rounds a week.
The needs and uses are diffrent, but still boil down to this:
You are putting a primer in a brass case and adding gunpowder and a bullet, then putting it in a pistol/rifle chamber
Holding it in your hand close to your face and pulling the trigger.
Without understanding the processes at work, the pressures generated, (tens of thousands of pounds per square inch )and the steps involved is unwise.
A reloading manual such as "The ABC's of reloading" or "modern reloading by richard lee" or the lyman manuals
Explain parts of a cartridge, each part of the reloading process, diffrences in powder types,burn speeds, and primers, diffrences in bullet construction,
And diffrent presses and tools that can be used.
They also go over case pressure signs and load development, the lee book goes into reduced loads.
As far as load data, the ABC's of reloading has none, lee has a compilation of data from other sources, lyman has data
And is a good resource for cast bullet data.
Hornady,speer,sierra, and the bullet makers manuals have data mainly as it pertains to their bullets.
Powder manufacturers have data that gives pressure in what they tested it in for maximum loads.
the lee loader is a neck size only, pound it with a mallet, pour powder from a dipper approach.
Eventually the brass will need to be full length sized, something that this approach does not do.
As far as assuming that the overall length has a relationship to distance from rifling,
That is not something that I would trust in a chart.
Bullet shape has a whole lot to do with that, as well as how the chamber in the rifle was cut.
It is best determined by measuring.
As far as the above quoted post not wanting to do load development, well, I'm sorry about that.
It goes with the reloading process. You will have to do some.
so yes, I think a manual or several is a good idea.
You will find diffrences in max listed loads in them, and comparing several data sources to get a reasonable starting point is always a good idea.
As far as basics, I consider the manuals to be one of them.
Same for a scale,caliper,powder dispenser,funnel
And if loading rifle ,trimmer, debur and chamfer tool, primer pocket and case neck brushes.
Others may include a case guage in this,as well as loading blocks,and off press priming tools, case cleaners,media separators,
The press and to some extent dies(if proprietary like dillon square deal) are another part that is decided on after reading the manuals and seeing the diffrences
Between lee loaders,hand presses,single stage presses,turret presses,and progressive presses.
Additional thoughts on manuals that are worth a read.
https://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=586009
(https://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=586009)